Tragedy struck as Japanese climber and accomplished mountain guide Shinji Tamura lost his life, while his partner Takayasu Semba sustained injuries during their daring ascent of an unnamed 6,800-meter peak in Ghanche district, Gilgit-Baltistan.
Undertaking a challenging first ascent in alpine-style through the Kande Valley of Ghanche, the duo faced adversity on August 11 when they slipped from their rope at an altitude of 5,300 meters. The fall resulted in Tamura's disappearance, and Semba was left injured.
Ghanche Deputy Commissioner Umer Vaqar informed reporters that the accident occurred due to the climbers' rope slip. Both were hurt, with Tamura's injuries being severe. Despite his own injuries, Semba managed to move Tamura to a tent before descending to the base camp in search of help.
A ground rescue team was swiftly dispatched from Hushe Valley to aid the stranded climber.
After three days of intensive efforts, the rescue team was unable to locate Tamura. It is presumed that he might have fallen into a crevasse during his solo descent in the dark. Authorities concluded the search operation yesterday.
Semba, reported to be in stable condition, was airlifted by a Pakistan army helicopter from the base camp to Skardu.
Shinji Tamura was renowned for his pursuit of alpine-style first ascents alongside Takayasu Semba.
Their past endeavors included an unsuccessful 2021 attempt on the first ascent of Bondit Peak, a feat that a Hungarian team achieved the following summer.
Born on August 14, 1966, Tamura was not only a proficient mountain guide but also a skilled photographer. Sadly, his 57th birthday coincided with the sorrowful end of the search operation. Tamura had relocated to Zermatt, Switzerland, in 1989, later establishing Active Mountain, a Zermatt-based travel agency, in 1997.
Since 2003, Tamura served as a high-altitude mountain guide with Himalayan Experience. His climbing career was distinguished by remarkable achievements, including four successful summits of Everest, four ascents of Manaslu, and three of Cho Oyu. He amassed a portfolio of expeditions across the Himalayas and Karakoram, conquering peaks like Broad Peak, Ama Dablam, Tawoche, Lobuche, Bondit Peak, Laila Peak, and Thamserku. He also accomplished significant climbs on Aconcagua, Denali, Mount Logan, and Vinson in Antarctica."
